Named Clothing Yona Coat
I have a couple of points to make about Named Clothing patterns in general. I think they've done a fab job of branding themselves. Their patterns look modern and fashionable. They are clothes that I can imagine trying on in Topshop or French Connection (my two favourite shops). So I got very excited about buying both this Yona coat and also their Ailakki jumpsuit.
However, on a practical level, I've found them pretty disappointing. Named definitely don't make the pattern cutting process easy. All the pieces need to be traced, since they overlap each other on the originals, and they don't include seam allowances (something I find highly irritating and entirely pointless). The pattern is also printed on much heavier paper than the normal tissue paper you would get with, say, a Simplicity or Butterick pattern. This is good in that it doesn't tear so easily, but it's also much more difficult to iron flat. Another downer I have on them is the expectation that you are an experienced dressmaker. The instructions are quite vague and the diagrams are sometimes confusing. Particularly when it came to the lapels, I found it difficult to work out how I was meant to position my pieces together.
So at £16 each, I did kind of feel like more thought and effort should have gone into producing the patterns. That said, I will probably still succumb to buying another one, they just make them look so damn cool.
The Yona pattern is pretty challenging. You've got a collar, lapels, pockets and lining to deal with. Plus its bulky, boyfriend-style shape can quite easily look like a mistake if not executed well. Having now completed two Named patterns - this, and the Ailakki jumpsuit - I've concluded that they design for someone of a rather different shape to me. I have a 5'5" hourglass frame, and I've found that both of these patterns have been much narrower in the hips than I would like. And, in the case of the Yona coat, waaay too broad across the shoulders.
I spent quite some time refitting it, taking in the whole top half - around the shoulders, the raglan sleeve seams and the centre seam at the back. I never got to the stage where I was truly happy with the fit. I had seen lots of similarly-shaped coats around, and drooled over the way that they fell in a perfectly smooth curve at the back. Mine still hangs with some ripples, but I wonder if this is mainly (or even entirely) down to my fabric choice.
I'm a massive fan of pockets. In fact, I consider myself a bit of a connoisseur. When it comes to coats, I'm quite particular about the size and the angle of pockets. My hands have got to be able to sit happily inside for long periods of time. The Yona is designed with patch pockets at the front, with horizontal openings so your hands have to go in vertically. I'm not into that. Therefore, I insisted on altering the pattern to include welt pockets instead. And then I made life even harder for myself by choosing to make them with a zip hidden behind the welts.
The Yona normally fastens with a belt. To be honest, I hadn't noticed this when choosing the pattern, otherwise I would perhaps have picked a different one. I'd seen a lot of similarly-shaped coats over the last couple of years, which all came with slightly asymmetrical zip fastenings, so I guess I just assumed this would be the same. And I rather foolishly decided that it would be worth the effort to add one in. It was a bit of a nightmare. But I managed it!
As mentioned earlier, I found the pattern fairly snug around my hips. As a result, I have to pull it up above my bum in order to sit down. Which is a shame. If I make it again, I'll definitely add in a couple of extra inches in width from the waist downwards. And while I'm at it, I might lengthen it down to mid-thigh level. (Well, I don't want two coats that look exactly the same, do I?!)
I realise it sounds like I changed everything, but there are certainly things I like about the Yona pattern. The sleeves are pretty ideal. Just the right length, and plenty of room inside, so that you can actually wear a jumper underneath. Hooray!
The collar and lapels were just how I wanted them. They're fairly big, but not dramatically so. They sit perfectly, curving slightly towards the body, and the corners are soft. And there's the option of using a contrast fabric for the lapels included in the pattern instructions.
Saving the best til last, my favourite thing about my version of the Yona coat...
This BEEEAUUTIFUL lining!
