Wednesday 1 July 2020

Pattern Review: Named Clothing Ninni Culottes

Okay, I'm six months pregnant. Time to accept that my normal clothes, and especially my normal trousers, no longer fit. The last few weeks I have been surviving in dresses (thanks Wilder Gown!) and leggings, but they have been on very frequent rotation and so the mission continues to try and sew my way to a complete maternity wardrobe. I'm still determined to avoid waste and focus on patterns that will provide longevity, lasting through the third trimester and beyond.

FEATURES

Named Clothing's Ninni Culottes were another pattern I discovered through Instagram's #memademay - big billowy trousers with an elasticated waistband. They are wide-legged and cropped. The pattern is designed for a height of 5'8". At 5'5", they have come out more ankle-skimming on me than on their model, but that's ok. They also feature pockets in the side seams (bonus!).


They are suited to a lightweight fabric that drapes well and doesn't chunk up too much when gathered in at the waist. The pattern says you should use a stretch fabric, but I didn't, and haven't had any problems. There is so much ease throughout the whole trouser that I don't know why it would need stretch.

I used double cotton gauze from Material Girl Laura, an online shop with a beautiful selection of dressmaking fabrics. It's very soft and airy, perfect for sticky summer weather - when (if!) that eventually returns. I picked a neutral colour that goes well with the rest of my wardrobe so I can get maximum use out of them in the next few pregnant months!


CONSTRUCTION

The pattern is really straightforward, altogether consisting of 9 pieces (a pair of trouser fronts, a pair of backs, the waistband and a pair for each pocket). I hate the process of cutting out, so I'm always relieved when the number of pieces is minimal.

I was really pleased with the instructions, they are set out in a logical order, with clean and simple diagrams. They also include instructions for finishing your seams along the way, so your culottes will look smart on the inside too. There are only 11 steps in total, so this is a really quick project!

There is one instruction that is maybe a little vague. You need a strip of elastic for the waistband, and they don't specify how much, instead just stating that you should cut it "of suitable length". Wrap the elastic around your waist, at the height you want to wear your culottes, and add in a tension that feels just a little tighter than you want in your finished garment, since your elastic will loosen a bit when sewn (the instructions mention this). Don't forget you'll need an extra inch or so to overlap the elastic ends and sew in a closed loop once threaded through the waistband! I used a soft plush back elastic from Minerva Craft. I find it much more comfortable, especially for a fairly wide waistband like this.

FITTING & ALTERATIONS

I'd highly recommend checking the sizing measurements rather than just making the culottes in your normal size. They are a VERY loose fit. I am normally a UK 10 or 12 on my lower half, and so, with my expanding belly in mind, I opted for a Size 12. I sewed them up and tried them on before securing the elastic in place at the waistband, and they completely swamped me. I looked like a clown. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I decided - rather doubtfully - that I needed an 8 instead.

A couple of hours of unpicking later...

I trimmed the pieces down to the Size 8, which was thankfully possible with this pattern, that's not always the case. And they are still baggy, but in an intentional-looking way now!



They are not mega flattering from behind... that may in part be thanks to a poor choice of underwear! But I think it's also just a general thing about elasticated waistbands and low crotches. They'd probably look better off with the shirt not tucked in.


I chose to alter the pockets slightly, as recommended by What Katie Sews in her pattern review. This secures the top of each pocket to the waistband, which stops them flapping around. I think I would make them a bit deeper next time too. They are perfectly fine for putting my hands in, but not for storing anything. I'd like to be able to slip my phone in, just for wandering round the house.

VERDICT

This is such a comfortable pair of trousers, very much suited to summer wear. What with the cropped length and necessity for fairly lightweight fabric, I think they would get a little chilly in the winter months. But they are ideal for me right now. It is a real relief to have some trousers in my wardrobe again that fit me, even sitting down!


From a maternity point of view, the plush back elastic makes them really comfortable around the waist and there is still plenty of stretch in them for the last three months ahead. Post-partum, I expect I will need to unpick the elastic from the waistband and tighten it up to keep them from falling down. But that is not a massive job.


They are a great, quick project, suitable for beginners. Expect them to be biiiiig, and enjoy swooshing around in them :)

I'll leave you with the exciting news that I have just bought a birthing ball. It makes an excellent photoshoot prop ha ha. (I ended up having a bit too much fun, and made my back hurt. What a wally.)




Tom says hi!



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