Pattern Review: Tessuti Fabrics Hazelwood Top

I only became aware of Tessuti Fabrics' patterns through this year's #memademay, after a couple of other sewists posted pictures of their lovely Lois Dress (which is on my list of post-natal makes to attempt!) They are an Australian company, predominantly selling fabric, but they have quite an extensive collection of patterns too. The branding is less polished than that of many of the other indie pattern companies, but the prices are also significantly lower, and they have some very pretty and wearable designs.
 

I instantly took a shine to the Hazelwood Top, with its cute, cropped parachute shape, massive collar and cosy long sleeves. I also happened to have 1.5m of sweatshirting kicking around in my stash, bought on a whim while ordering GoreTex from The Rain Shed, because it was ridiculously cheap ($2 per yard!? I think possibly a pricing mistake as it's now listed at $9.50... oops, but lucky me!).

The Hazelwood Top is an A-line shaped jumper with a statement funnel collar and long set-in sleeves. It comes as two versions, cropped and full-length, with the cropped version typically skimming the top of your jeans, and the full-length coming just over your hips. It is suitable for medium-weight knit fabrics. The pattern asks you to sew with an overlocker/serger, but if you don't have one, you can just use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.

I initially cut the full-length Version B, in the interests of covering my growing pregnant belly. But once complete, I decided I didn't find it flattering on my body. The A-line shape seemed rather too wide around the back, and I wasn't keen on the proportion of the bodice length to the sleeve length. I decisively hacked a few inches off the bottom, which has made it now very close to the intended length of the cropped Version A, possibly 1-2cm shorter in fact.



I found the number of printing pages somewhat excessive for the PDF pattern. The bodice pieces are big, so that is unavoidable printing, but there is a second PDF of pattern pieces just for the hem facings. There are eight hem facings in total, of which you'll only ever need two (a front and a back), depending on whether you're making Version A or B, and which size you need. These pieces take up a whopping 12 pages! I took the executive decision to not bother printing or cutting the hem facings. I simply folded the hem under on the main bodice pieces instead, and it worked just fine.

I've seen a blog post about Tessuti's (free) Monroe Top, which described similar frustration at the inefficient PDF layouts, so perhaps this is a niggle across many of their patterns.

Nevertheless, constructing the Hazelwood is very straightforward (especially if you've chosen to scrap the hem facings!) There are few pieces and the process is intuitive and clearly described in the Instruction Booklet.

The only stumbling block could be setting in the sleeves. It isn't obvious which way round the sleeves go. Based on the shape of the curve, I guessed that the notched side was to attach to the front of the bodice. It does not seem to have a corresponding notch to match it to though...


As mentioned already, my version is maybe slightly shorter than the standard cropped length, and I left off the hem facing pieces, preferring to finish the edges with my overlocker and folding the hem up 2.5cm.

I also found the funnel collar too high for me. My fabric is quite stiff, so perhaps the length works better in a slightly less structured knit. I found that my chin rubbed against it constantly and that got annoying very quickly. I unpicked the collar and reduced the height by 1.5cm (which is 3cm total off the pattern piece, since it is folded in half vertically). And it's still plenty tall enough!


I'd fallen in love with some beautiful Albstoffe cuff ribbing online. I must confess that it was eyewateringly expensive (about £15 for 140cm), but I was convinced it would make my jumper feel more special and luxe.


Therefore, I left off the sleeve facings too, and shortened the sleeves by 6cm to attach these cuffs at the bottom instead.


I love the finished result of my Hazelwood Top. I realise through writing this post that it sounds like I made a lot of changes and wasn't satisfied with the pattern. But this wasn't my perceived experience while making it. The choices and alterations to make it a success were very easy. I think it is often only when we have a simple project that we have the confidence to make the changes it needs to make it perfect.


I would highly recommend making Version A, the cropped version. And I definitely think the hem facing is unneccessary, so I would save yourself the extra PDF printing. If you're using quite a stiff fabric, take 3cm off the total height of the collar piece. With those changes, I think it's an excellent and simple-to-sew pattern.


Mine is super-snuggly with the fleece-lined sweatshirting, and I think the chunky collar, flared hem and long sleeves make for an interesting and well-balanced silhouette. I know my belly is going to poke out the bottom, but frankly, I don't care.