Papercut Rigel Bomber Jacket
Back in October last year, I found myself grinning at a rather beautiful khaki bomber jacket in the window of Topshop. Being a newly self-employed person (AKA poor), I have banned myself from entering clothes shops. But a BOMBER JACKET? Yes. Please. So I had a good hunt on Pinterest for a suitable pattern instead. (I'm allowed to spend money on sewing. Don't question it.)
ENTER THE RIGEL BOMBER
By New Zealand-based pattern company Papercut, the Rigel is a clean, modern and loose-fitting jacket. It comes with two versions (the second has a subtle patchwork detail on the shoulders) and can be made in various fabric types - silk, cotton, or in my case, quilted jersey, and moleskin.The jersey was quite a find actually, hidden in the murky depths of Classic Textiles on Goldhawk Road, London and priced at FIVE POUNDS A METRE.
I almost fell at the fist hurdle though. I didn't buy a lot of it (I know, even at THAT price. What an idiot.) so I spent two hours nervously arranging - and rearranging - the pattern pieces, until I finally successfully squeezed all of them onto the fabric. Phew! Then, somehow, as soon as I picked up my scissors, I cut straight through one of the front panels. F***'s sake. And I was quite amusingly and disproportionately despairing. Much disbelieving head-shaking and swearing ensued. It went on for quite some time.
Eventually, I got over it. I rearranged the pieces again, dividing the least important ones in two. So I have a little seam on each of the lining strips. Not the end of the world.
THE PATTERN
For the most part, the Rigel pattern is straightforward. The trickiest bit comes right at the beginning, when you create the pockets. I've had quite a few goes at welt pockets in the last few months, but I still can't get my head around the process. I had to unpick this pocket twice, since I kept making the welt wider at one end than the other. I think really the key is just practice and patience. It makes for a beautiful pocket in the end! I did all the finishing by hand.
Adding the ribbing was simple. I took care to stretch it out evenly along the hem and cuffs, so that the main body of the jacket would puff out evenly. Lots of pins involved, but just a nice straight line to sew on the machine once in place.
The pattern says to use ribbing for the collar too. But I found that there was enough stretch on the bias of my quilted jersey to execute it neatly with that. I worked hard to get the seam allowances of the collar exactly the same on each side. Any small differences become surprisingly obvious when zipped up. And then of course I had to put the zip in as perfectly as possible too (I always baste a zip first). I was pretty proud of the symmetry on this one.
THE ALTERATIONS
I didn't make a single alteration to the fit of this jacket. Sleeves are the perfect length. Shoulders are loose enough to lift my arms up in the air. There isn't any unnecessary bulk. It doesn't ride up. Pockets are well positioned. Collar sits perfectly on my neck. I really am massively impressed!
THE VERDICT
I'm so pleased I didn't give up immediately after that initial problem with my pattern cutting. It's turned out to be my absolute favourite homemade garment. In full-on white, it's a bit of a statement, and obviously rather impractical for a lot of situations (it is never coming to the pub with me, for example). But it's tasteful and flattering, and I'm not being TOO precious about it. Much coffee has been drunk and biscuits nibbled over it. No spillages so far.
It has even had a trip to the Arctic Circle!
GO MAKE YOURSELF ONE
