Upcycling chevrons

Back in 2008, I bought a rather large sack-style top from H&M. It was a time when 1. I was vaguely larger (thank you university stress-related binge-eating), and 2. it was cool to wear a belt round your waist, instead of round your trousers. I thought it looked pretty good back then, but now - down a few pounds and beltless - it is quite awful.


It seemed too sad to let it go though. I love a good chevron. In fact, stripes in general are pretty ace. And, quite tragically, my collection of striped attire is almost non-existent. I have been keeping an eye out in the fabric shops, but all the stripes have been super-thin, and almost always in navy. Which is fine, but not very "me".

One blazing hot day in early June, we had the builders in to redo our bathroom. Not only did I feel far too self-conscious to head out bikini-clad into the garden for a spot of sunbathing, but they had to switch the electricity off. Meaning I couldn't even play on my sewing machine (they should deffo be battery powered)

'What non-electrical sewing activities can I crack on with?' I pondered.

And then I came up with an excellent idea. I wonder if you can guess what it was ;)

The Big Apple

Well, here we have it: the lowdown on my second go at Cynthia Rowley's overlay dress pattern (Simplicity 8086). If you want to hear about the pattern itself, you can head over to my original post about it. This time I'll just share pretty pictures and talk through the changes I made.

I used a much lighter fabric this time, some sort of soft, thin polyester that I was delighted to pick up super-cheap while holidaying in Hong Kong earlier this year. I'd been hunting for a decent printed fabric that wasn't a floral for flippin' ages and this fit the bill perfectly. Me and my friend Jo were enthusiastically commenting on its luxe appearance - "it could totally be Gucci" - when, according to Tom, a couple walked past the shop and muttered "that fabric looks ridiculous". Yes, ridiculously GOOD.

My last attempt at this dress was in crepe, which was much thicker. I think perhaps the pleated skirt looked better on that one, because the stiffer fabric has more structure, and therefore the pleats are more noticeably defined. However, parts of the bodice felt pretty bulky after sewing the pieces together, even after trimming away most of the seam allowance. Particularly around the armholes, I could feel it standing out.

The thinner polyester makes for a more flattering bodice. The edges are cleaner and it sits more comfortably against my body.


The fabric is a little see-through. Not a problem on the bodice, since there are in fact FOUR layers of fabric. But for the skirt, I had to make a lining. A simple process: I just duplicated the skirt pieces in a lining fabric and followed the usual instructions for forming the skirt. Then I basted it to the outer skirt along the top edge, wrong sides together, before sandwiching that edge between the waistband pieces.


As with the crepe dress, I altered the neckline. I just find the shoulders on the original pattern a bit boxy. So I shortened the shoulder seam to 4cm, and then curved the armhole edge gradually down to meet the original side seam. A braver seamstress would have made this alteration directly to the pattern pieces before cutting her fabric. But I altered mine during construction, labouring over the symmetry of the two armholes. It was stupidly time-consuming. And having now made this alteration on both attempts at this dress, I am officially going to edit my pattern pieces. (I'm such a maverick.)




I added a second button at the split of the overlay. I worried about it gaping open and thought a second fastening would make it neater. It doesn't need it. I mean, it doesn't ruin it, but I've looked at it with the second button undone, and it hangs nicely anyway. (My mum agrees. So that's that decided.)


I also did something wonderful. I added pockets to it. Explaining that is way too technical, so I will spare you here, and endeavour to write up a separate post for any nerds who want to hear about it ;)


What I didn't notice last time round (perhaps because I was distracted by the added difficulty of using a mischievous tulle for the overlay) is that this is a TOUGH pattern. It really does seem to take forever to make. Sure, I made changes. But there are so many fiddly details to it anyway... The pleated skirt, the bodice back, the invisible zip, the overlay.


And one thing you should definitely note if you are planning to make this dress too:
I am almost entirely confident that the instructions contain a mistake at Step 19. I had to Google it in the end, and found a sewing blogger, Sewmanju, who agreed with me in her review of the pattern.

Reassured, I ditched the instructions and went rogue. The key point is that it tells you to sew both armholes, and then turn the overlay the right way round. As far as I can tell, this is impossible. You have to sew one armhole and turn it the right way round before sewing the second.

I wish I'd known sooner though. I spent an entire afternoon, cooped up in the house ill, desperately trying to make sense of the instructions, tying my bodice in knots and blaming my failure on my fuzzy head. In fact, it did eventually reduce me to tears. (I was ILL, OKAY?)

Okay. It's written down now. I just wanted to have a record of the problem, so that when I come to try this pattern again a couple of years down the line, I can get past step 19 without crying. [I was lucky enough to avoid this step the first time round because I added my tulle overlay differently]


Did I put you off this dress pattern yet?!

Simplicity 8086 makes for a beautiful dress once complete. But it is not for the faint-hearted. It takes plenty of time, patience and some head scratching. I'd advise steering clear if you're new to dressmaking.

• I do recommend making it in a lightweight fabric. 
• The neckline alteration I made is a personal preference based on body shape. 
• Don't bother with my second button idea. 
• Hardly need mention that adding pockets was totally worth it.

Fabric shopping in Ho Chi Minh City

It dawned on me on our first morning in Ho Chi Minh. Vietnam should have some pretty exciting and potentially great value fabric kicking around. There are a hell of a lot of tailors throughout the country, with vast numbers of tourists ordering custom-made garments during their trips. Immediately I was on cafe wifi, Googling for fabric shop tips from fellow enthusiasts.


The next morning, I convinced a hungover and vulnerable Tom to take a 20 minute walk with me to a silk shop recommended on Cashmerette's blog. She gave the address as 180 Lý Tự Trọng, but after a good long stroll, we found a big gaping hole in the buildings where 180 should have been.

'What ARE the chances?!' I thought with dismay.
('Thank God' thought Tom. Probably.)

But don't despair, everyone. Almost directly opposite, at 195, was a suspiciously similar-looking silk shop, so I'm kiiiind of assuming it's just moved.

It is a beautifully presented shop. All fabric is arranged to hang down off racks, much in the same way fancy wrapping paper is displayed back in the UK. And there are layers of these racks on sliders, so you can move the front rows out of the way and dig around, without disturbing any of the fabric. What an incredibly sensible system!


I also found this was one of the few shops in Vietnam where I could happily browse without the uncomfortably close watch of a shop assistant. They were on hand to give info on fabric types and prices, but only when approached. Just how I like it.

It was relatively expensive, between 450d and 600d per metre for the fabrics I asked about. That's £15-20, so basically what I would expect to pay back home for the same quality. But there was a much more extensive and exciting selection, particularly of lightweight, NON-sheer fabric, which I tend to class as a real treat if I'm browsing the shelves of my local John Lewis.


Since I'm currently living on a tight budget (especially after those £450 flights....), I was VERY strict with myself. I stroked a lot of fabric and pondered a few tempting options, but eventually left empty-handed. There were some beautiful bold and unusual prints, but nothing quite right for the bright summer dress I'd like to make.


We walked back down Lý Tự Trọng towards Ben Thanh Market and stumbled upon another shop. I don't remember its name or its address. I mention it simply to highlight the distinction between fabric shops, and tailoring shops.

I was immediately hounded by the shop assistant, who remained at my shoulder for the whole five minutes I could bear to spend in there. She pointed out random fabrics to me and asked if I wanted them, which was reallllly off-putting. It's a shame since some of the rolls looked pretty cool. There was a section of vivid photographic-printed fabric that I would have loved to inspect more closely. But I thought it dangerous to take TOO much interest, for fear of having to worm out of buying it from my new attentive friend (classic awkward Brit that I am).

I think a lot of the problem was that the shop included a tailoring service, so I imagine they normally do work closely with customers to suss out what they want making. Possibly they wouldn't even have let me buy the fabric to sew up myself. I read on SeamstressErin's blog that this was a real struggle in Hoi An, where there is a proper abundance of tailors' shops. Owners were suspicious that you'd buy the fabric and take it on to a cheaper tailor. She had much greater success at wholesale shops.

I made a swift exit.


After this fabric shop warm-up, it was time for The Daddy: Ben Thanh Market. If you want to be thorough, you will probably need the whole day. I didn't see anywhere near all the fabric stalls (Tom was flagging by this point. Poor bastard.) Usefully, they are all grouped together, but I was amazed at how VAST it is.


The walkways are super narrow and fabric is mounded up far beyond your reach. If you're interested in a fabric, you nearly always need to ask for help getting to it. And you definitely need to avoid feeling the pressure to buy everything you look at - even if the stallholders are very keen - or you'll need to also head over to the bag section of the market for your second suitcase.

The fabric still wasn't quite as bargainous as I'd expected, I found a pretty, yellow silk that cost 600d (£20) per metre. And a floral lace for 500d (£16). Both appeared to be good quality, but it is a LITTLE hard to tell. Because the stalls are cramped, it's awkward to open fabric out completely to inspect. Plus the market is fully covered, so the lighting is dim or artificial. I found myself slightly dubious of colours and sheen.

That said, it was an exciting experience. I've never come across so much fabric in my life. The stalls were generally well-organised into fabric types, and rolls were neatly packed. Stall owners were friendly and less aggressive sellers than in other sections of the market. There were tonnes of bright bold prints available and it was wondeful to find so many specifically for dressmaking, rather than the quilting cottons that dominate fabric shops back home.

After plenty of deliberation (Tom wanted to die), I only bought one fabric. A flowy synthetic floral which sadly I now have my doubts about. Having got it back to our hotel and laid it out, it felt cheaper than I had originally thought, and it turns out it's a stretch fabric too. Surprised and ashamed I didn't notice that! But hey-ho. I will find a use for it. Negotiations are perfectly acceptable on the markets, so this was 400d (£12), haggled down from 500d.


My advice for Ben Thanh Market:

I think that I had worried initially that stallholders might get stroppy if I pulled out fabrics to look at and then left without buying anything. But having this attitude means you'll either be too scared to look at anything and miss out on the fun of exploring all that wonderful fabric, or you'll go home with a bunch of stuff you don't like. Turns out I did a bit of both.

If I were going again, I would tell myself this:

- Be hard-nosed. Have fun.
- Have a good browse of the stalls first. Take photos of the fabrics you like, and note down prices.
- Go away for a coffee and weigh up options.
- Come back with a friendly but firm haggling mindset.



My final stop was at Huong, just off Lý Tự Trọng, en route to the War Remnants Museum.

Much bigger than the fabric stalls, this shop had heaps of choice by itself. Rolls of lightweight polys were stacked vertically against each other on the floor with tiny walkways to squeeze between them. More luxurious silk and lace hung from racks on the walls. Further back were heavier weight fabric - cottons, suiting, and even some thick wools.

Particularly exciting to me was the incredible selection of stretch lace. Back home I only really find it in black, white or trim widths.

But the fabric I really fell for, that I hadn't been looking for at all, was the embroidered tulle. I came away with this beauty.


It was a single 2 metre piece, so when I unwittingly asked for one and a half metres, she told me I had to buy the whole lot. Bit of a bummer since I won't need that much for the little shift dress I've envisaged. But perhaps I'll attempt some lingerie too. (What, in TULLE?! I'm sweating with fear just thinking about it.) I got the two metres for 1000d (£35)

I also had my eye on this red, yellow and white one. But it was 800d (£28) per metre. Yikes.

Before I'm 30

I just hit 29 last month, so I'm now officially on the countdown to 30. I haven't made a list of goals - or at least, not a long one - because there is just ONE thing I would like to achieve in the next year. That is to become, as they say, "shit hot" at pattern cutting. In reality this probably means 1. Waste a lot of fabric 2. Waste a lot of time 3. Cry a lot. But I am so SO up for it.

I already started dabbling last year, messing around with a swimsuit pattern, and eventually I also mastered a basic t-shirt pattern. But I still don't feel like I really get it... I want to understand how shapes fit the body, and why some clothes look so deliciously well-tailored and expensive.



This is part of a bigger goal of course. I would really very much like to be a professional freelance seamstress.

Last Christmas, I got Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, after it was recommended to me by a fashion graduate friend. It is an entirely practical, dry book full of text and diagrams, covering basic blocks and adaptations. It's no good as a source of inspiration, but pretty perfect as a rulebook to get you started, especially for a nerd like me who simply adores following instructions.

And, on my birthday, I added a rather more saucy looking book to my pattern drafting collection: Ann Haggar's Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear. Similarly, it's full of text and diagrams, and the basics overlap a lot. But this one - as the name clearly states - offers a much more detailed look at intimates.


So over the next year, I want to explore these books as thoroughly as I can, and maintain a running commentary on my progress.

I am already underway with a pyjama project, having completed some elasticated shorts and now working on a camisole to pair with them.


On the horizon (and with fabric eagerly waiting) is a boxy jacket inspired by a magazine cutting that I lovingly stuck in my scrapbook last year.