Thursday 16 July 2020

Sewing a Maternity Wardrobe

Yesterday I officially hit the third trimester! 28 weeks. Eeek. For someone who was always quite terrified at the idea of childbirth, I'm actually feeling pretty god-damn excited now. It'll be lovely to finally meet the little thing that's been kicking me in the belly for the last few weeks. It'll also be lovely to once again be able to tie my shoelaces without breaking a sweat.

The bump is certainly protruding now, and it is just a few stretchy dresses and flowy tops from my pre-pregnancy wardrobe that have stepped up to the mark and proved themselves reliable. All of my trousers, even my skirts, have fallen by the wayside over the second trimester.

But as my fellow sewists will know, there is nothing like a legitimate excuse to go fabric shopping! So it has been all-hands-on-deck, researching suitable patterns, matching them up with versatile fabrics, and getting to work on sewing myself a maternity wardrobe.

I thought I'd share my progress with you - the garments I've made so far, and how they are fairing up at 28 weeks. Bearing in mind that this my first pregnancy and I didn't know a thing about maternity clothing beforehand, I am yet to know for sure how good the choices I've made really are. But I will revisit this when I'm reaching pregnancy-max to report on how well each garment has lasted. Hopefully this will be helpful to other expectant mums out there who are attempting to sew their maternity wardrobes too! 

Let's go chronologically:

Cloth Habit - Watson Bra
My boobs had an impressive growth spurt early on in pregnancy, leaving me with nothing but a couple of sports bras to wear. I had this pattern already, so I quickly (and urgently!) made two - one in black, one white - using existing jersey remnants from my stash. The pattern is good in that it has no underwiring, so significantly more comfortable than my shop-bought bras. And making them both two cup sizes up from my normal size, they were great for a month or so. But by 22 weeks, my boobs had grown further, and not only do they now spill out a bit, but the jersey fabric cannot offer enough support to the extra weight. So they are sag-gy!! The pattern itself may not be too bad if you use a sturdier fabric. But the straps are quite narrow and it does not offer a whole lot of coverage anyway, so I wouldn't really recommend it for maternity.
At 18 weeks

Friday Pattern Company - Wilder Gown
I had seen this all over Instagram, and well-praised as a maternity-friendly make. I very much agree! I made two. The first as a long, flowy dress with full sleeves, in a soft, light viscose. It was ideal during our brief heatwave in the UK in May - very airy but also offering a lot of sun protection! And so far I have had no issues at all with the fit, either across my chest or belly.
At 20 weeks

The second was more hacked, with short sleeves and a knee-skimming hem. I used a fancy embroidered tulle, with a friend's wedding in mind for late August when I will be nearly eight months pregnant. She and her partner have since postponed the wedding, due to coronavirus, but I still think it's nice to have a maternity party dress, just in case of an impromptu celebration! And I'm confident I'll be able to wear both of these dresses post-natally too.
At 20 weeks

See my full pattern review of the Wilder Gown here.

Sew Over It - Libby Shirt
This is a lovely baggy shirt pattern, which I made in (I think) another viscose, or something similar. It's soft and drapes nicely. I made the shirt a size up from my usual size, and the fit feels good at the moment. The pattern has the option of cropping the bodice at the front, which I chose to do. But I wish that I hadn't. The bump has started peeking out underneath, especially as my trousers are tending to ride down too. I am still wearing it, as it is comfortable, but it has become a bit annoying in public, having to rearrange myself to not be on show too much!
At 23 weeks

I have a viscose crepe lined up to make another, which I will do as the full length version this time. In fact, I am tempted to lengthen it an extra inch, if I have enough fabric.

See my full pattern review of the Libby Shirt here.

Tessuti Fabrics - Hazelwood Top
This jumper is lovely for colder days as I used a heavy sweatshirting fabric. Like the Libby Shirt, it is cropped, and belly has a tendency to poke out. But with it being a jumper, this feels like less of a problem since I can wear a longer t-shirt underneath. The pattern has the option to make it as a significantly longer top, which is what I had originally planned. But once sewn up, the shape didn't work at all for me in such a stiff fabric. So I cropped. I reckon in a lighter knit, the long version would be a great option for maternity.
At 24 weeks

See my full pattern review of the Hazelwood Top here.

Named Clothing - Ninni Culottes
Trousers are the thing I have been really crying out for during the second trimester. With an elasticated waistband and very loose fit, these culottes are really comfortable. I made mine in a double gauze cotton. I actually sized down from my normal size, believe it or not, because they are seriously baggy. I used a soft plush elastic in the waist, since I find that it stretches more comfortably.

While I definitely think they are useful, and expect them to last throughout pregnancy, there are days when it feels far too chilly to wear them. And the style and colour doesn't go with many of my existing tops. However, I do have a couple of projects in the pipeline that I hope will compliment them and help me to get more wear out of them.
At 26 weeks

See my full pattern review of the Ninni Culottes here.

Deer & Doe - Givre Dress
Deer & Doe have a deal where if you buy this dress pattern, you can get the maternity version of it super-cheap alongside (an extra 2, I believe). I honestly cannot praise this pattern highly enough. The fit is really flattering, plus it was quick and simple to make.

I made the standard non-maternity pattern first, as a strapless dress, in a dotty white jersey that apparently was designed for kidswear (ooops... Well, it means it's nice and soft anyway!) I'm interested to see if it will stretch out enough to make it through to Month 9. So far, so good.
At 28 weeks

I then made the 3-6 month maternity version. (There is also a 6-9 month pattern included) This time, I went for the full-length sleeves, mainly to give myself more wardrobe versatility. But this version also has a yoke on the front and back bodice, so I hope to unpick the front yoke seam and install an invisible zip after birth, so I can use it as a nursing dress. I used Tencel jersey, which is ridiculously soft and has a comfortable stretch to it, while still holding plenty of structure.
At 26 weeks
Greenstyle Creations - Stride Tights
Leggings are, of course, an excellent addition to any maternity wardrobe. I chose Greenstyle's pattern because they are tailored towards fitness rather than fashion, and I'd like to be able to wear mine for running, once I start up again after birth (tooooo uncomfortable right now!). I made them in my normal size, and chose the high-rise waistband option. They do tend to slide down below my belly quite quickly when I go out for a walk in them, but around the house they have been great so far. I'm interested to see whether I am going to stretch the waistband to a point where the fabric won't spring back after pregnancy. But I figure I can always replace the waistband later if needs be.
At 27 weeks

Greenstyle Creations - North Shore Bikini

I happened to have enough fabric leftover from the leggings to make a bikini top too. In this particular fabric - "Life Recycled" nylon - I was delighted to find it's sturdy enough to work as a sports bra. In fact, it has become my boobs' new best friend, supporting them almost everywhere I go! There are many variations of this pattern, and I used the Full Coverage front and Pullover U back, which seemed like the most robust combination of the lot.

Named Clothing - Reeta Dress
I absolutely fell in love with this fabric and this pattern. I don't have many shirt-dresses in my normal wardrobe, and it's been pointed out to me that they work really well for breastfeeding. I actually got to make use of the button-down front today too on a trip to the doctors, opening up the middle section to allow for a listen of baby's heartbeat!

The pattern has a drawstring waistband so you can loosen it as the bump grows. For now though, I've chosen to leave out the waistband completely and use a belt instead, since I worry that my waist is now sitting a lot higher than it normally would. The loose fit is great, particularly around the chest, and the side slits at the hem give a bit of extra ventilation on hot summer days.
At 28 weeks

Yet To Come!

I still have a pile of fabric waiting to be sewn up into maternity clothes. Next on the list is a Papercut Pinnacle Top in red polka dot viscose crepe, and some self-drafted tapered trousers in black Tencel twill.


I shall see you in a couple of months' time for my final verdict of these patterns as maternity-friendly projects!

Wednesday 1 July 2020

Pattern Review: Named Clothing Ninni Culottes

Okay, I'm six months pregnant. Time to accept that my normal clothes, and especially my normal trousers, no longer fit. The last few weeks I have been surviving in dresses (thanks Wilder Gown!) and leggings, but they have been on very frequent rotation and so the mission continues to try and sew my way to a complete maternity wardrobe. I'm still determined to avoid waste and focus on patterns that will provide longevity, lasting through the third trimester and beyond.

FEATURES

Named Clothing's Ninni Culottes were another pattern I discovered through Instagram's #memademay - big billowy trousers with an elasticated waistband. They are wide-legged and cropped. The pattern is designed for a height of 5'8". At 5'5", they have come out more ankle-skimming on me than on their model, but that's ok. They also feature pockets in the side seams (bonus!).


They are suited to a lightweight fabric that drapes well and doesn't chunk up too much when gathered in at the waist. The pattern says you should use a stretch fabric, but I didn't, and haven't had any problems. There is so much ease throughout the whole trouser that I don't know why it would need stretch.

I used double cotton gauze from Material Girl Laura, an online shop with a beautiful selection of dressmaking fabrics. It's very soft and airy, perfect for sticky summer weather - when (if!) that eventually returns. I picked a neutral colour that goes well with the rest of my wardrobe so I can get maximum use out of them in the next few pregnant months!


CONSTRUCTION

The pattern is really straightforward, altogether consisting of 9 pieces (a pair of trouser fronts, a pair of backs, the waistband and a pair for each pocket). I hate the process of cutting out, so I'm always relieved when the number of pieces is minimal.

I was really pleased with the instructions, they are set out in a logical order, with clean and simple diagrams. They also include instructions for finishing your seams along the way, so your culottes will look smart on the inside too. There are only 11 steps in total, so this is a really quick project!

There is one instruction that is maybe a little vague. You need a strip of elastic for the waistband, and they don't specify how much, instead just stating that you should cut it "of suitable length". Wrap the elastic around your waist, at the height you want to wear your culottes, and add in a tension that feels just a little tighter than you want in your finished garment, since your elastic will loosen a bit when sewn (the instructions mention this). Don't forget you'll need an extra inch or so to overlap the elastic ends and sew in a closed loop once threaded through the waistband! I used a soft plush back elastic from Minerva Craft. I find it much more comfortable, especially for a fairly wide waistband like this.

FITTING & ALTERATIONS

I'd highly recommend checking the sizing measurements rather than just making the culottes in your normal size. They are a VERY loose fit. I am normally a UK 10 or 12 on my lower half, and so, with my expanding belly in mind, I opted for a Size 12. I sewed them up and tried them on before securing the elastic in place at the waistband, and they completely swamped me. I looked like a clown. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I decided - rather doubtfully - that I needed an 8 instead.

A couple of hours of unpicking later...

I trimmed the pieces down to the Size 8, which was thankfully possible with this pattern, that's not always the case. And they are still baggy, but in an intentional-looking way now!



They are not mega flattering from behind... that may in part be thanks to a poor choice of underwear! But I think it's also just a general thing about elasticated waistbands and low crotches. They'd probably look better off with the shirt not tucked in.


I chose to alter the pockets slightly, as recommended by What Katie Sews in her pattern review. This secures the top of each pocket to the waistband, which stops them flapping around. I think I would make them a bit deeper next time too. They are perfectly fine for putting my hands in, but not for storing anything. I'd like to be able to slip my phone in, just for wandering round the house.

VERDICT

This is such a comfortable pair of trousers, very much suited to summer wear. What with the cropped length and necessity for fairly lightweight fabric, I think they would get a little chilly in the winter months. But they are ideal for me right now. It is a real relief to have some trousers in my wardrobe again that fit me, even sitting down!


From a maternity point of view, the plush back elastic makes them really comfortable around the waist and there is still plenty of stretch in them for the last three months ahead. Post-partum, I expect I will need to unpick the elastic from the waistband and tighten it up to keep them from falling down. But that is not a massive job.


They are a great, quick project, suitable for beginners. Expect them to be biiiiig, and enjoy swooshing around in them :)

I'll leave you with the exciting news that I have just bought a birthing ball. It makes an excellent photoshoot prop ha ha. (I ended up having a bit too much fun, and made my back hurt. What a wally.)




Tom says hi!



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