Thursday, 13 July 2017
The Big Apple
Well, here we have it: the lowdown on my second go at Cynthia Rowley's overlay dress pattern (Simplicity 8086). If you want to hear about the pattern itself, you can head over to my original post about it. This time I'll just share pretty pictures and talk through the changes I made.
My last attempt at this dress was in crepe, which was much thicker. I think perhaps the pleated skirt looked better on that one, because the stiffer fabric has more structure, and therefore the pleats are more noticeably defined. However, parts of the bodice felt pretty bulky after sewing the pieces together, even after trimming away most of the seam allowance. Particularly around the armholes, I could feel it standing out.
The thinner polyester makes for a more flattering bodice. The edges are cleaner and it sits more comfortably against my body.
ALTERATIONS
The fabric is a little see-through. Not a problem on the bodice, since there are in fact FOUR layers of fabric. But for the skirt, I had to make a lining. A simple process: I just duplicated the skirt pieces in a lining fabric and followed the usual instructions for forming the skirt. Then I basted it to the outer skirt along the top edge, wrong sides together, before sandwiching that edge between the waistband pieces.
As with the crepe dress, I altered the neckline. I just find the shoulders on the original pattern a bit boxy. So I shortened the shoulder seam to 4cm, and then curved the armhole edge gradually down to meet the original side seam. A braver seamstress would have made this alteration directly to the pattern pieces before cutting her fabric. But I altered mine during construction, labouring over the symmetry of the two armholes. It was stupidly time-consuming. And having now made this alteration on both attempts at this dress, I am officially going to edit my pattern pieces. (I'm such a maverick.)
I added a second button at the split of the overlay. I worried about it gaping open and thought a second fastening would make it neater. It doesn't need it. I mean, it doesn't ruin it, but I've looked at it with the second button undone, and it hangs nicely anyway. (My mum agrees. So that's that decided.)
I also did something wonderful. I added pockets to it. Explaining that is way too technical, so I will spare you here, and endeavour to write up a separate post for any nerds who want to hear about it ;)
ISSUES
What I didn't notice last time round (perhaps because I was distracted by the added difficulty of using a mischievous tulle for the overlay) is that this is a TOUGH pattern. It really does seem to take forever to make. Sure, I made changes. But there are so many fiddly details to it anyway... The pleated skirt, the bodice back, the invisible zip, the overlay.
And one thing you should definitely note if you are planning to make this dress too:
I am almost entirely confident that the instructions contain a mistake at Step 19. I had to Google it in the end, and found a sewing blogger, Sewmanju, who agreed with me in her review of the pattern.
Reassured, I ditched the instructions and went rogue. The key point is that it tells you to sew both armholes, and then turn the overlay the right way round. As far as I can tell, this is impossible. You have to sew one armhole and turn it the right way round before sewing the second.
I wish I'd known sooner though. I spent an entire afternoon, cooped up in the house ill, desperately trying to make sense of the instructions, tying my bodice in knots and blaming my failure on my fuzzy head. In fact, it did eventually reduce me to tears. (I was ILL, OKAY?)
Okay. It's written down now. I just wanted to have a record of the problem, so that when I come to try this pattern again a couple of years down the line, I can get past step 19 without crying. [I was lucky enough to avoid this step the first time round because I added my tulle overlay differently]
CONCLUSION
Did I put you off this dress pattern yet?!
Simplicity 8086 makes for a beautiful dress once complete. But it is not for the faint-hearted. It takes plenty of time, patience and some head scratching. I'd advise steering clear if you're new to dressmaking.
- I do recommend making it in a lightweight fabric.
- The neckline alteration I made is a personal preference based on body shape.
- Don't bother with my second button idea.
- Hardly need mention that adding pockets was totally worth it.
Wednesday, 5 April 2017
Fabric shopping in Ho Chi Minh City
It dawned on me on our first morning in Ho Chi Minh. Vietnam should have some pretty exciting and potentially great value fabric kicking around. There are a hell of a lot of tailors throughout the country, with vast numbers of tourists ordering custom-made garments during their trips. Immediately I was on cafe wifi, Googling for fabric shop tips from fellow enthusiasts.
TOAN TINH: A posh silk shop
(195 Lý Tự Trọng)
The next morning, I convinced a hungover and vulnerable Tom to take a 20 minute walk with me to a silk shop recommended on Cashmerette's blog. She gave the address as 180 Lý Tự Trọng, but after a good long stroll, we found a big gaping hole in the buildings where 180 should have been.
'What ARE the chances?!' I thought with dismay.
('Thank God' thought Tom. Probably.)
But don't despair, everyone. Almost directly opposite, at 195, was a suspiciously similar-looking silk shop, so I'm kiiiind of assuming it's just moved.
It is a beautifully presented shop. All fabric is arranged to hang down off racks, much in the same way fancy wrapping paper is displayed back in the UK. And there are layers of these racks on sliders, so you can move the front rows out of the way and dig around, without disturbing any of the fabric. What an incredibly sensible system!
I also found this was one of the few shops in Vietnam where I could happily browse without the uncomfortably close watch of a shop assistant. They were on hand to give info on fabric types and prices, but only when approached. Just how I like it.
It was relatively expensive, between 450d and 600d per metre for the fabrics I asked about. That's £15-20, so basically what I would expect to pay back home for the same quality. But there was a much more extensive and exciting selection, particularly of lightweight, NON-sheer fabric, which I tend to class as a real treat if I'm browsing the shelves of my local John Lewis.
Since I'm currently living on a tight budget (especially after those £450 flights....), I was VERY strict with myself. I stroked a lot of fabric and pondered a few tempting options, but eventually left empty-handed. There were some beautiful bold and unusual prints, but nothing quite right for the bright summer dress I'd like to make.
A TAILORING SHOP
(Lý Tự Trọng, somewhere near Ben Thanh Market...)
We walked back down Lý Tự Trọng towards Ben Thanh Market and stumbled upon another shop. I don't remember its name or its address. I mention it simply to highlight the distinction between fabric shops, and tailoring shops.
I was immediately hounded by the shop assistant, who remained at my shoulder for the whole five minutes I could bear to spend in there. She pointed out random fabrics to me and asked if I wanted them, which was reallllly off-putting. It's a shame since some of the rolls looked pretty cool. There was a section of vivid photographic-printed fabric that I would have loved to inspect more closely. But I thought it dangerous to take TOO much interest, for fear of having to worm out of buying it from my new attentive friend (classic awkward Brit that I am).
I think a lot of the problem was that the shop included a tailoring service, so I imagine they normally do work closely with customers to suss out what they want making. Possibly they wouldn't even have let me buy the fabric to sew up myself. I read on SeamstressErin's blog that this was a real struggle in Hoi An, where there is a proper abundance of tailors' shops. Owners were suspicious that you'd buy the fabric and take it on to a cheaper tailor. She had much greater success at wholesale shops.
I made a swift exit.
BEN THANH MARKET
After this fabric shop warm-up, it was time for The Daddy: Ben Thanh Market. If you want to be thorough, you will probably need the whole day. I didn't see anywhere near all the fabric stalls (Tom was flagging by this point. Poor bastard.) Usefully, they are all grouped together, but I was amazed at how VAST it is.
The walkways are super narrow and fabric is mounded up far beyond your reach. If you're interested in a fabric, you nearly always need to ask for help getting to it. And you definitely need to avoid feeling the pressure to buy everything you look at - even if the stallholders are very keen - or you'll need to also head over to the bag section of the market for your second suitcase.
The fabric still wasn't quite as bargainous as I'd expected, I found a pretty, yellow silk that cost 600d (£20) per metre. And a floral lace for 500d (£16). Both appeared to be good quality, but it is a LITTLE hard to tell. Because the stalls are cramped, it's awkward to open fabric out completely to inspect. Plus the market is fully covered, so the lighting is dim or artificial. I found myself slightly dubious of colours and sheen.
That said, it was an exciting experience. I've never come across so much fabric in my life. The stalls were generally well-organised into fabric types, and rolls were neatly packed. Stall owners were friendly and less aggressive sellers than in other sections of the market. There were tonnes of bright bold prints available and it was wondeful to find so many specifically for dressmaking, rather than the quilting cottons that dominate fabric shops back home.
After plenty of deliberation (Tom wanted to die), I only bought one fabric. A flowy synthetic floral which sadly I now have my doubts about. Having got it back to our hotel and laid it out, it felt cheaper than I had originally thought, and it turns out it's a stretch fabric too. Surprised and ashamed I didn't notice that! But hey-ho. I will find a use for it. Negotiations are perfectly acceptable on the markets, so this was 400d (£12), haggled down from 500d.
My advice for Ben Thanh Market:
I think that I had worried initially that stallholders might get stroppy if I pulled out fabrics to look at and then left without buying anything. But having this attitude means you'll either be too scared to look at anything and miss out on the fun of exploring all that wonderful fabric, or you'll go home with a bunch of stuff you don't like. Turns out I did a bit of both.
If I were going again, I would tell myself this:
- Be hard-nosed. Have fun.
- Have a good browse of the stalls first. Take photos of the fabrics you like, and note down prices.
- Go away for a coffee and weigh up options.
- Come back with a friendly but firm haggling mindset.
HUONG
(67 Thủ Khoa Huân)
My final stop was at Huong, just off Lý Tự Trọng, en route to the War Remnants Museum.
Much bigger than the fabric stalls, this shop had heaps of choice by itself. Rolls of lightweight polys were stacked vertically against each other on the floor with tiny walkways to squeeze between them. More luxurious silk and lace hung from racks on the walls. Further back were heavier weight fabric - cottons, suiting, and even some thick wools.
Particularly exciting to me was the incredible selection of stretch lace. Back home I only really find it in black, white or trim widths.
But the fabric I really fell for, that I hadn't been looking for at all, was the embroidered tulle. I came away with this beauty.
It was a single 2 metre piece, so when I unwittingly asked for one and a half metres, she told me I had to buy the whole lot. Bit of a bummer since I won't need that much for the little shift dress I've envisaged. But perhaps I'll attempt some lingerie too. (What, in TULLE?! I'm sweating with fear just thinking about it.) I got the two metres for 1000d (£35)
I also had my eye on this red, yellow and white one. But it was 800d (£28) per metre. Yikes.
Friday, 17 March 2017
Before I'm 30
I just hit 29 last month, so I'm now officially on the countdown to 30. I haven't made a list of goals - or at least, not a long one - because there is just ONE thing I would like to achieve in the next year. That is to become, as they say, "shit hot" at pattern cutting. In reality this probably means 1. Waste a lot of fabric 2. Waste a lot of time 3. Cry a lot. But I am so SO up for it.
I already started dabbling last year, messing around with a swimsuit pattern, and eventually I also mastered a basic t-shirt pattern. But I still don't feel like I really get it... I want to understand how shapes fit the body, and why some clothes look so deliciously well-tailored and expensive.
This is part of a bigger goal of course. I would really very much like to be a professional freelance seamstress.
Last Christmas, I got Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, after it was recommended to me by a fashion graduate friend. It is an entirely practical, dry book full of text and diagrams, covering basic blocks and adaptations. It's no good as a source of inspiration, but pretty perfect as a rulebook to get you started, especially for a nerd like me who simply adores following instructions.
And, on my birthday, I added a rather more saucy looking book to my pattern drafting collection: Ann Haggar's Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear. Similarly, it's full of text and diagrams, and the basics overlap a lot. But this one - as the name clearly states - offers a much more detailed look at intimates.
So over the next year, I want to explore these books as thoroughly as I can, and maintain a running commentary on my progress.
I am already underway with a pyjama project, having completed some elasticated shorts and now working on a camisole to pair with them.
Wish me luck!!
Tuesday, 9 August 2016
just 3 Shades Of Grey
| Dress Pattern | Simplicity 8086 (by Cynthia Rowley) |
| Fabric |
|
| Extras | Interfacing, 12" invisible zip, button, button loop |
It is not uncommon for me to be seduced in the John Lewis haberdashery. Most recently, I succumbed to this rather delicious embroidered tulle. Sparkly, sheer, tasteful. What's not to like? More than anything else, the scalloped edge had me stroking it lovingly, taking photos and checking the price tag. £32 a metre?! HA. I don't think so. I made a swift departure.
And yet, two weeks later, I found myself gazing longingly at it once again. And on this occasion, I must have been feeling more vulnerable. As long as I don't get a WHOLE metre, this fabric is not so expensive. My desperate, terrible logic. Sigh.
It then sat in my cupboard for three months while I searched for the perfect pattern.
Finally, after much Pinterest hunting, I stumbled upon this rather elegant and "on trend" Cynthia Rowley design. It's Simplicity 8086. A relatively new pattern I think. Over-excited, I was straight back down to John Lewis (Yes, it's within walking distance of my house. Very dangerous.) to buy the pattern, complimentary fabric, threads and zip.
Let's get this beauty DONE.
Oh. Steady on, Lucy. You've never worked with tulle before have you? Do you know how to sew this horribly expensive and delicate fabric? Umm.......
There followed much experimenting, learning and undoing. I think I will spare you the tedium in this particular blog post. (You're welcome.) But it involved starch. Lots and lots of lovely starch.
I made Version C of the dress, i.e. the shorter, sleeveless version with a contrast overlay.
According to the standard pattern, you have a lining for both the bodice and the overlay. But since my overlay was sheer, I didn't line that, just finished the raw edges. This didn't seem to cause too much trouble.
The waistband just peeks out under the overlay, so I decided it'd be a nice touch to make the front section of the waistband in a subtle contrast fabric. I went for a metallic grey crepe. It is my favourite thing about this dress. So happy I did it.
The scalloped edges also worked very well. Though I did have to be very careful at the back that they finished symmetrically. I just about managed it!
The main bodice fastens at the back with an invisible zip. The overlay has just one button fastening at the top, closing with a loop rather than a hole. I think you could easily add extra buttons right down the back if you wanted, or even use a zip.
The pattern wants you to make the button-loop using your fabric, but I found that it was WAY too thick. Maybe I got my seam allowances wrong? Or just doesn't work well with crepe? Who knows... Instead I wove myself a little piece of rope from my metallic silver thread (a surprisingly useful skill I picked up years and years ago at Girl Guides!)
The one other problem I found was with the shape of the bodice. It seemed a bit boxy at the shoulders for me. So I cut away at the armholes to narrow the straps on mine.
Overall, I was pretty impressed with the pattern. The skirt falls beautifully and is a great length. I kind of wish it had pockets (EVERYTHING should have pockets...) but I reckon you could add them easily. The back bodice is fairly low, but I did manage to find one bra that remained hidden. So not impossible. Love the neckline. Still a little bit unsatisfied with the back of the overlay. But that's down to the fabric (damn you tulle!!). Really good fit, particularly round the waistline.
This make is now sitting proudly in my wardrobe amongst the other posh dresses. And rightly so! I shall look forward to wearing it publicly soon!
Friday, 5 August 2016
Hiking in the Cairngorms - Day 4
| Munros bagged: | ZERO. *Sigh* |
| Distance walked: | 20km |
| Song stuck in head: | Lana Del Rey - Off To The Races |
| Celebratory meal: | A pretty disappointing burrito from Roo's Leap in Aviemore |
During the night, something weird happened. Tom woke up around 1am, convinced he could hear footsteps. This is something I have terrified myself by imagining from time to time. You know, young couple, camping in the middle of nowhere, no defence, no weapons, stumbled upon by a complete psychopath who just HAPPENS to be wandering around the hills looking for someone to eat... Anyway. Tom had got himself a bit spooked, and shook it off, supposing it was just the wind in the trees.
But suddenly, a flash light came on, and there was someone - with a dog - stood right outside the tent.
And they said,
"Is that Gillian?"
Tom replied "No, sorry."
At which point, I finally woke up too. Very confused, since Tom had just shouted in my face.
But that was it. They just walked off. Tom relayed the story to me, and I felt a bit ill. Just the likelihood - we had seen one other person ALL day. And the awareness of our vulnerability was creepy too. We tried, in our disorientated, just-woken state, to come up with an explanation. We failed. (Although, upon reflection, it's obvious isn't it? They just really wanted to eat Gillian.)
So we survived the night. First thing in the morning, it pissed it down. We enjoyed bringing the wet tent down and bundling it into its bag. (Nnnott.) Then off we went, on our Munro-less trek.
To be honest, there isn't a great deal to report from the day. Just plodding our way through valleys, on paths - fairly good paths in fact - and stopping occasionally to consult the map, remove layers, or nibble some dried mango. Ha, I know, mango! We are super-posh twatty wild-campers aren't we?!
We passed the Devil's Point (which, from yesterday, we were now in the habit of pointing at, whenever we saw it. Hilarious fun. Clearly.) and the Corrour bothy beneath it. It looked very popular; we could see five or six people pottering about close by, and a tent pitched next to it.
We had a very long straight hike through the Lairig Ghru, slowly gaining a bit of height. We had to stop halfway to deal with my one and only blister of the trip. (Shout out to Compeed! The greatest plasters in the world.) And we had a nice chat with a reasonably old man who had decided to go for a tough jog through the valley. He told us he was welcoming any chance to stop and get his breath back. Indeed we saw him stop to talk to some more people just a 100m up the track!
We also saw a man with an interesting pointy hat.
We came to the beautiful Pools of Dee. Had it been warmer, and less close to the path, it would have been a fabulous swimming spot. I am still waiting for the perfect opportunity for a proper Scottish skinny-dip. It is going to happen. Definitely...
Eventually, we got to start coming back down. It had actually come out sunny too! And after 10km walking along the Lairig Ghru pass, we came to our turning. We would follow the Chalamain Gap route to take us back to Cairngorm Ski Centre.
There's a fairly long boulder field to cross. Typically it started raining just before we got to it, so I had to think about slipping as well as balance. Tut. We saw a man on top of the cliffs teaching his teenage sons to rock-climb. Cool Dad!
We were pretty chuffed to clamber down unscathed. Here is Tom's best "Man Conquers Rocks" pose.
Finally, we were on the home straight. There were trees at last!
[As a little aside: In Iceland, there's a popular hike called the Laugavegur that crosses over glaciers and very barren volcanic terrain for about 50km. It eventually ends in Þórsmörk, translated as "Thor's Wood". After a few days hiking without any greenery, you know you are reaching the end once you spot the first tree. And apparently you must shout "Mork! Mork!" in celebration, which Tom and I now dutifully do on all of our hiking trips.]
It was pretty, mind.
At this point, we had our hearts set on catching the 5pm bus back to Aviemore. But we had a steep climb back up out of the valley. Plus, the scenic route had been closed for maintenance, so we had to walk along the main road instead. I think we looked a bit tragic. We were feeling quite beaten at this point; my legs were stinging, there was just no energy left. We were desperately pushing uphill as fast as we could. Sweating. Gasping. But try as we might, we could NOT overtake the elderly couple strolling just a few metres ahead of us.
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